Whitening - lightening the skin tone

Pigmentation marks, freckles and reddened skin are frequently felt as a nuisance. As only very few individuals however are endowed with an even skin tone, so called whitening products become increasingly popular.

What determine the skin colour?

Melanin is found in two different types of skin which is eumelanin (black-brown) and pheomelanin (reddish-yellow). Both together determine the skin color. In UV radiation the formation of melanin is increased. Melanosomes and melanocytes increase and the skin-tanning process will start. This process also includes hyperpigmentations i.e. age spots or freckles develop an increased pigmentation in comparison to their environment.

Which ingredients/substances may lighten pigmentation or whitening?

1) Hydrochinone or Arbutin

~inhibits the activity of tyrosinase which is an enzyme located in the melanosomes (cell organelles) and transforms the amino acid dopa (3.4-dihydroxyphenylalanine) into melanin.

~It is generally supposed that hydrochinone also contributes to the destruction of melanosomes and the de-activation of melanocytes whereas the keratinocytes are not affected. The natural substance arbutin with a glycoside linkage of hydrochinone to glucose shows similar reactions. In comparison to hydrochinone however this substance has the advantage of showing better resistance to atmospheric oxygen.

2) Kojic acid

~Just like hydrochinone, kojic acid (5-hydroxy-2-hydroxymethyl-4H-pyran-4-on) is a strong reducing agent and a tyrosinase inhibitor. Kojic acid is a very effective bleaching agent and very popular in Asia. The effects of kojic acid may be increased by adding AHA acids. Just like glycolic acid AHA acids have peeling effects thus removing melanin-containing substances from the skin surface on the one hand and stimulating cell formation in order to increase the exchange of melanin-containing cells on the other hand.

3) Polyphenols and extracts

~Vegetable extracts play a major role in skin whitening.

~Pertaining to this group are concentrates rich in polyphenols like liquorice or appropriate extract combinations which are better known by the popular term gigawhite: mallow, (malva sylvestris), peppermint (mentha piperita), primrose which is also called cowslip (primula veris), lady's mantle (alchemilla vulgaris), veronica, also called speedwell (veronica officinalis), balm (melissa officinalis) yarrow (achillea millefolium).

~Most of the components are tyrosinase inhibitors. Decisive factor here is a transport vehicle which penetrates the effective agents into the skin. In this case, liposomes and nanoparticles have proved successful.

~Whereas pure vitamin C only has topical effects similar to AHA acid, the reducing effect of vitamin C which penetrated into the skin inhibits the formation of intermediate products of the melanin synthesis. A very important prerequisite for the penetration is that the derivatives are encapsulated as for example vitamin C palmitate which generally is encapsulated in nanoparticles because of its solubility in fats. After its penetration into the skin, enzyme activity causes the molecule to break down by means of esterases into palmitic acid and free vitamin C which then is able to inhibit the formation of melanin. A further vitamin C derivative is sodium ascorbyl phosphate which is encapsulated in liposomes due to is water solubility.

Advantages of vitamin C preparations:

~the formation of components quite identical to endogenic substances as well as their low concentration. Unlike hydrochinone or arbutin only the melanin synthesis is inhibited in this case whereas the existing melanin will not be affected. The products however are highly effective and free of any side effects. A further advantage of encapsulated vitamin C derivatives as against free vitamin C is their extended shelf life.

Disadvantages of vitamin C

~vitamin C derivatives have to be used as a preventive measure for an extended period before its effects become visible.

Preventive measures:

Avoiding sun radiation as well as applying sun screen products are the most essential preventive measures accompanying skin lightening. It has to be kept in mind however, that a certain amount of UV radiation is vital for the skin in order to form vitamin D. High concentrations of UV screens though will chronically stress the skin.The fact, that pigmentation marks frequently are caused by photosensitizing substances often is ignored. This also applies for certain medication and some home remedies too like St. John's wort belong to this group. Also some fragrances like bergamot essence which is contained in a lot of perfumes show photosensitizing effects.Two further substances are important for an even skin complexion: echinacea extract and vitamin K. Both have positive effects in cases of couperosis and reddened skin, vitamin K additionally in cases of rosacea, purpura and dark rings under the eyes.

Protecting against UV radiation

By nature, the sensitivity against UV rays increases with the application of bleaching products as the natural protection of melanin is suppressed. A very interesting aspect in this case is the application of CM-glucan as a skin protecting substance.A preventive application of vitamin C liposomes in combination with gigawhite liposomes also is an alternative. The latest findings show that the linoleic acid which is chemically bound in liposomes contributes to the synergy here. Encapsulation in liposomes increases the effects and enables a low dosage which means that the products can be used on a long-term base. Adding CM-glucane (photo-protective) and vitamin K (against reddened skin) is an almost ideal combination of substances. Regarding pigmentation marks the dermatologist should be contacted in any case of doubt in order to exclude the formation of melanoma.

Eye Care

The skin is different??
The skin around the eyes has weaker lipid and collagen structures than the other facial skin. On top of that, the skin diameter in this area also is thinner than the diameter of the other skin. Accordingly, any changes of skin elasticity are easier to detect. Dark rings around the eyes are a typical consequence of the thinner skin diameter as the internal blood vessels can be visible. In case that tissue and blood vessels are stressed due to insufficient sleep and excessive alcohol consumption, and if recovery phases are not adequately observed the preconditions for an effective long term cosmetic treatment are rather inadequate.

The cosmetic eye care is based on four essential elements:
~Base care,
~Active agents,
~Adequate treatment procedures,
~Use of appropriate products without straining additives

1) Base care:
Already here there are two different concepts: Many users favour aqueous eye gels which are more or less free of lipid components. Others prefer lipid enriched products ranging from W/O emulsions to oleogels (water free). No other skin area involves so many subjective perceptions and expectations regarding the product selection. Both of the product groups provide reasonable arguments for their use.
i) Eye gels
~gels generally have a cooling effect and this is the reason why consumers rate the gels as rather agreeable to use. They protect the eye area as they are easy to apply without any mechanical stress. And by the way, gels can optimally be combined with water soluble moisturizing substances. Regarding their composition and application however there are some basic hints to observe: In case that the gels do not create superficial water retaining films as e.g. if hyaluronic acid or other mucous generating agents like aloe vera, algae or CM glucan are added, they should be applied only sparingly or otherwise be combined with an additional lipid enriched cream. Why that? As the water in the gel evaporates the moisturizing substances will concentrate and if the gel is frequently and abundantly applied there may be an immanent risk of overdosing the moisturizers. This however can be avoided by a water retaining film on the surface. The following treatment with a refattening cream though will not retain any water, however it will impede that it can evaporate.

ii)Eye cream
~eye creams provide moisturizing substances and lipids in various combinations. There are oil-in-water as well as water-in-oil emulsions on the market. In order to achieve easy and comfortable spreading they are frequently combined with spreading oils which, however, are rather misplaced in eye creams as they may easily cause irritations of the mucous membrane of the eye. In case of extremely sensitive skin it is recommended to use preparations without any emulsifiers. Products with DMS technology (DMS = Derma Membrane Structure) or water free oleogels belong to this specific category. The advantage of the last named is that they do not require any preservatives (see above) per se. Their disadvantage is that they practically do not contain any moisturizing substances. In this case it is however possible to firstly apply an active agent in pure form (see below). This combination allows to individually and optimally control skin hydration as well as lipid content of the skin. An effective compromise solution here are eye gels with emulsifier free DMS concentrate. They provide the specific properties of a gel, contain lipids and yet are free of emulsifiers. These formulations are now on the market as finished products. It is however also possible to combine a moisturizing base gel with a DMS base cream and appropriate active agent concentrates as individually needed.